The Wale
In the case of double-planked (plank on bulkhead) models, the first layer of
planking should be in place first, and be done symmetrically, one plank at a time on each
side to avoid skewing the hull. The first layer of planking is not seen in the completed
model, but is valuable practice for the later, outside planking. This layer of planking
stabilizes the hull in plank on bulkhead models, and allows detection and repair, with
some filler material, of any dips in the hull. The first layer also provides a proper surface
for marking the planking pattern, to follow.

The wale planks are the first outside planks, and they establish the shear of the
model and all of the subsequent planking is guided by them. The planks of the wale are
not tapered; they may be multiple in large ships. They divide the topsides from the lower
planks, and they stabilize the frames or bulkheads if those models of hull construction are
used.

The wale must be meticulously measured on both sides when installed. Measurements must be made at multiple stations, and in framed models, every frame. The wale is thicker than the other planks. Following the placement of the wale, bilge stringers (or actual floor timbers) need to be installed to stabilize the lower aspects of the frames. This step is unnecessary in plank of bulkhead or solid hull models. In framed models the beam shelf is then installed, stem to stern on both sides, to establish the location of the deck beam. This requires, ad did the wale, meticulous and preferably, repeated, measurement. Reinforcement between the cant frames (forward) and fitted timbers is also necessary especially in the area of the anticipated hawse holes.

The Topsides
In most cases, the topside timbers (between the wale and the cap rail) need no
tapering, and merely follow the configuration of the wale. These are the easy part.

The Lower Planks

The lower planking separates the “men from the boys.” Here the term: “spiling”
not present in most spell check programs, becomes the byword – but first things first.
The first and most empowering step is to place the planking battens. First divide
the hull into segments at the beam of the vessel that represent the median plank width of
each strake. Then use these marks as the starting locations for the battens. This gives a
better chance of all the planks amidships being consistent in width.

The battens consist of small strips, perhaps 1/16” square, of wood provisionally
attached to the sides of the hull to divide the hull into several small planking projects,
rather than a single incomprehensively complex one.

The first batten is placed (starting amidships) so as to establish a fair, attractive
curve. The more battens, the more accurate the resulting planks. In general, large ships
require more battens than smaller ones. Once the battens are placed, one needs to determine the number of planks planned for each zone. This is estimated amidships, using the anticipated average width of the plank as determined, according to the scale, individual model, etc. Each strake (row of planks) is taken all the way from the stem to the sternpost. To be done right, the planks may need (especially aft) to be wider than those usually provided in kits, and at least some new ones will need to be made available in larger widths, as the number of strakes remains the same.

Some kits recommend using a single plank from stem to stern but his is
unrealistic, and several are more correct, of generally predetermined length. Not only is
it more correct to use several planks per strake, but it is actually much easier to shape the
individual ones.

Spieling is the process of tracing the shape of one plank to fit the underside of the
one above. The shape of the wale  is traced with a compass or other
convenient tool onto a rough plank, which then is shaped off the model to fit. Instead of
a rough plank, a piece of stiff paper (as a file folder), cut to the approximate shape of the
wale’s lower surface, lends itself readily to the transfer of the shape.
One can test fit the resulting plank by bending it in place and correcting any slight
imperfections before gluing.