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TIPS |
MAKING SAILS FOR THE EMMA C. BERRY
1.
Iron the linen cloth to remove creases.
2.
Obtain sail pattern copies from the plans.
3.
Layout the sail patterns on linen cloth to
ensure sufficient material exists.
4.
The directions of sail seams are to be parallel
to the grain of the cloth.
5.
When satisfied with the layout, use Scotch's blue painters masking tape
to secure the sail
patterns to the back of the linen. The
blue tape is easily removed and
leaves no traces.
The plans should be visible through the linen for easy tracing.
6.
Pencil the outline of the sails. This
is called Line A. Make the pencil marks light.
7.
Add another pencil line 1/4" outside the sail
outline. This will be the edge of
the sail flap that is folded over. This
is called Line B.
8.
Mark the ends of the sail seams outside the
sail area. Connect these
marks using a
disappearing ink pen. This
minimizes the number of pencil lines on the linen.
9.
Set up your sewing machine as follows:
a.
Use light tan colored cotton thread.
b.
Select a straight stitch.
c.
Select a slow sewing speed.
d.
Select a small stitch length.
e. Select a low tension on the
tension dial.
10. Sew over the marked lines to simulate sail seams. Do the vertical lines first followed by the horizontal lines.
11.
Trim the loose threads and erase any visible
pencil marks. Iron the sails if needed.
12.
Apply Saran Wrap to entire surface of working area to avoid glue damage.
Always
work on waxed paper as an added precaution.
13
. Apply Aleene's Stop Fraying to the
edge of the sail (Line B or the
outside pencil line
where the cuts are to be made). Allow
glue to dry.
14.
Fold at the sail edge (Line A) and hold it in
position with blue tape. Iron
this to form a good
sharp edge.
16.
Also apply Stop Fraying near the sail corners and then cut the
material so as to reduce cloth overlaps
when the flaps
are folded.
16.
Using a cutting pad or protector (the thinner the better), cut with a
sharp blade Line B.
17.
Apply Aleene's No-Sew Fabric glue under the
flap and press the flap to the sail.
Press together with strips of
wax paper to act as a spreader and to keep your fingers free of glue.
Allow this to dry.
18.
Trim any loose threads. Check
for loose flap areas. Add
additional glue to secure these areas.
19.
Add
a bolt rope to the outside edge of the
sails taking care to form loops as required as
each corner.
20.
Iron the sails again to reduce any curling.
21.
Make
holes with a needle for mast hoops,grommets, boom/mast facing, and rings
on the jib and topmast stay sail.
22.
Attach blocks and lines to the sails per plans.
23.
Add reef lines (use Bob Graham's hint of
using a non-sticking paper, weighting the reef lines with a clip,
saturating with diluted white glue,
allowing to dry, and cutting to length).
24.
The sails are now ready for rigging.
HINTS
1
. Aleene's Stop Fraying
is preferred over
Dritz' Fray Check. It is
easier to spread, like a white glue, and cheaper.
It also dries very clear.
2.
Use blue tape by Scotch tape. It
is a masking tape that holds well but when removed leaves
no marks and comes away cleanly even from
paper.
3.
Use blue tape to hold the bolt rope close to
the sail's
edge and to get remaining rope out of the way.
4.
Use a styrofoam block underneath the sail edge
when stitching the bolt rope. This
provides a firm cushion to absorb the needle as it is pushed
through the sail.
5.
Secure the bolt rope with Aleene's Stop Fraying blue at the joints and
loops.
6.
Don't stitch with tight tension on the thread. Otherwise, the sail with start to curl.
7. Use a flexible cloth bandaid on your finger instead of a thimble. You have better control and it's not so awkward.